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Bandhavgarh National Park

Although a relatively small park, in the last few years this former game reserve has become one of India's most prominent National Parks, and busiest!. The major reason for all the interest is Bandhavgarh's high density of tigers, which roam the mixed forests of sal and bamboo in search of an easy kill.

Tigers such as Sita and Charger immortalized by National Geographic, and more recently Dhitoo, Mohini and Sita Bachi, not only bolstered the local population by breeding successfully, they have also brought international media attention to the park and the plight of the Bengal Tiger. Bandhavgarh has continued to provide the best chance of seeing tigers in India, if visitors spend a reasonable length of time, with Ranthambhore a close second. The popularity of Bandhavgarh does mean that at weekends and peak times (Diwali, Christmas and Holi) the tourist zone can get quite crowded.


Bandhavgarh is set amongst the Vindhya Hills of Madhya Pradesh and consists of a core area of 105 sq km and a buffer area of approximately 400 sq. km. Topography varies between steep ridges, undulating forest and open meadows, over half of the park is tree-covered. The ruins of the ancient fort from which this park derives its name provides a stunning backdrop. Scattered around the park are archaeological remains of the Kalchin period and numerous prehistoric caves.

The Maharaja of Rewa was the last occupier of the fort, and managed the surrounding forest to increase his chances of a good hunt until giving the land to the state for it to become a National Park in 1968. Between morning and afternoon safaris it is well worth getting permission to climb the 1000 feet to the fort (currently out of bounds) , passing ancient carvings that represent the incarnations of Vishnu. From many vantage points you have stunning views across the park, looking down on soaring vultures and rare Malabar and Gray Hornbills.

In addition to the tiger it is also possible to see chausingha (small four horned antelope), chinkara, nilgai, barking deer, leopard, sloth bear, Indian dhole (wild dog), and rhesus macaque. Over 150 bird species are listed including Paradise Fly Catchers, Golden and Black Headed Orioles, Yellow Ioras, Purple Sunbirds and Red Vented Bulbuls. Since there are no large bodies of water, migrants are relatively few, there are many streams but few are permanent.

Most visitors to Bandhavgarh enjoy the opportunity to go on elephant back to view tigers that would otherwise remain hidden, however we strongly request all our guests to show respect to the Tiger and to the elephant by not staying too long and not encouraging the Mahout to get too close. We also recommend reporting any Mahouts who use excessive force to both the park authorities and your lodge manager.

To alleviate some of the vehicle pressure a route system was re-established at Bandhavgarh in 2005; although some routes are undoubtedly less likely to result in a tiger sighting, you will gain a better appreciation of the park as a whole, enjoy more intimate sightings and encounter some other species that you might otherwise have missed. After completing one of the allocated 60km routes jeeps return to a central point for the short elephant shuttle if a tiger is known to be in a particular area. You can choose to continue by jeep and not take the elephant ride if you prefer – exploring different areas but leaving tracking more to chance.

Feedback does suggest that the route system is a success; however we do strongly request that all visitors discourage their drivers from rushing to the elephant camps to gain a better position in the queue. At Tiger Trails believe that an emphasis on listening for and tracking the wildlife provides a better overall experience for visitors and wildlife alike than a reliance on just elephants. From October 2006 entrance fees around key festival dates have been significantly increased by the Madhya Pradesh state government, again with the aim of better preserving the park.

Bandhavgarh has a relatively remote location and is best reached by overnight train to Umaria or Katni. It is possible to fly from Delhi to Jabalpur (around six hours drive from the park), or to Khajuraho where the numerous thousand year old temples, with their erotic carvings, are a unique destination to consider. The road from Khajuraho, and nearby Panna, is in a poor state of repair and the uncomfortable journey can take up to seven hours. Kanha is a half days drive away from Bandhavgarh. The park opens sometime between October 1st and November 1st depending on the amount of rainfall received and closes at the end of June.

 

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