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Approximately 220 miles
east of Kathmandu is Kosi Tappu, a protected flood plain area
on the border with the Indian state of Bihar. In 1958
construction started of the huge Kosi Barrage to minimise the
destructive annual flooding around the Sapta Kosi, one of the
Ganges largest tributaries. The numerous irrigation channels
allowed a gain in arable land, with a resultant influx of
people to farm rice, corn, millet, sugar cane and fish.
Kosi Tappu became a Wildlife Reserve in 1976 and now covers
175sq.km, at an altitude of less than 240m. The river is over
3km wide in places and because of its sandy bed it is
constantly changing course and forming new sandy islets.
Within the reserve and nearby forests an impressive 462 bird
species have been listed, 130 of these are resident. The area
is said to attract almost every South Asian wader and wetland
species.
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The main migratory season is
from November to February, with visitors from pied harriers to
Siberian ruby throat and chestnut eared Buntings to ruddy shelduck.
Between February and April summer migrants arrive and many
residents are nesting and rearing young in the grassland, sandy
banks and marshy areas. Specialities include the spot-billed
pelican, black necked stork, cinnamon bittern, swamp francolin,
great thick knee and Indian courser.
Although Kosi Tappu is very much a destination for serious avian
enthusiasts it is home to some interesting mammals. It is the last
park in Nepal with a population of wild buffalo; the forest
department take strong action to try to prevent interbreeding with
the domestic ‘strays’. On the embankments or from the river you
can also observe hog deer, mongoose, monitor lizards, mugger and
gharial crocodiles. Close to the barrage itself a school of
Gangetic dolphins might be spotted. More elusive residents are
fishing, jungle and toddy cats in addition to leopard, favouring
darkness they are unlikely to be seen.
The easiest way to see a large number of the species is to walk
with a guide on the embankments between paddyfields and fish ponds
and alongside the river. Drifting slowly by river raft provides
excellent photographic opportunities for capturing birds in
flight, diving, nesting or simply gathered in numbers on the
islets. A visit to the Dharan forest at the foot of the Mahabarat
range offers the chance of some additional species, including spot
winged starling, silver backed needle tail and blue bearded
bee-eater.
There are just two tented camps on the edge of the reserve,
although open year round being under canvas between April and
September will affect your comfort. It is worth noting that the
low altitude and abundance of water results in more biting insects
than elsewhere in the country, particularly in the warmer months.
The best way to reach Kosi Tappu is by air to Biratnagar, followed
by a two hour drive to the reserve. |